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		<title>S24 on Warm IR Radiant Heating</title>
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		<description>Recent content in S24 on Warm IR Radiant Heating</description>
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			<lastBuildDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2026 03:59:10 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>Replacement lamp for Krones S24</title>
				<link>http://warm-ir-radiant.com/en/posts/replacement-lamp-for-krones-s24/</link>
				<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jul 2026 03:59:10 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://warm-ir-radiant.com/images/978de03e89c77103547e0820ad423d55.png&#34; alt=&#34;Replacement lamp for Krones S24&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;why-your-sig-blomax-lamps-keep-burning-out-and-how-we-fixed-it&#34;&gt;Why your SIG Blomax lamps keep burning out (and how we fixed it)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you&amp;rsquo;re running SIG Blomax lines at full tilt, you know the headache of constant tube burn-outs. It’s frustrating. You&amp;rsquo;re hitting your targets, and then &lt;em&gt;pop&lt;/em&gt;—another lamp goes, the line stops, and you&amp;rsquo;re scrambling.&#xA;Most of the time, it&amp;rsquo;s not bad luck. It&amp;rsquo;s just the brutal reality of thermal cycling and &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;structural&lt;/a&gt; stress. When you push these machines to their &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;limit&lt;/a&gt;, standard lamps just can&amp;rsquo;t keep up. That&amp;rsquo;s why we &lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;built&lt;/a&gt; our S24 replacements differently.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Getting the heat right&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Here&amp;rsquo;s the thing about PET preforms: they need to hit that glass transition temperature fast. Really fast. To make that happen, you need high heat density.&#xA;Our S24 lamps are tuned for that intense, short-wave infrared blast. It speeds up your cycle times, which is great for your numbers, but it&amp;rsquo;s a nightmare for the quartz envelope. If your cooling fans aren&amp;rsquo;t dialed in perfectly, the heat just soaks into the glass until it gives up.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Built to actually last&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;We decided to stop using the thin glass you find in most &amp;ldquo;off-the-shelf&amp;rdquo; replacements. That thin stuff bows and warps when it gets hot, which messes up your heat distribution and eventually leads to a crack.&#xA;Instead, we went with&lt;strong&gt;heavy-wall quartz&lt;/strong&gt;. It stays &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;straight&lt;/a&gt; and holds its shape.&#xA;We also beefed up the end-caps. There&amp;rsquo;s nothing worse than a loose fit that causes electrical arcing at the sockets. We stripped away the unnecessary fluff and focused entirely on the mechanical bond between the filament and the supports. It&amp;rsquo;s simple, sturdy, and it works.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Getting them in the machine&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The best part? These are just drop-in replacements. You don&amp;rsquo;t have to mess with your PLC settings or rewire the oven. You just swap them out and get back to work.&#xA;You&amp;rsquo;ll notice a much more consistent heat profile across the blowing station, which means fewer unplanned stops.&#xA;One quick tip: before you slide the new lamps in,&lt;strong&gt;check your contact pins for oxidation&lt;/strong&gt;. A dirty connection will fry a reinforced lamp just as fast as a cheap one. Give them a quick clean, pop the lamps in, and you&amp;rsquo;re good to go.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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